Chicago Shops

A Hidden Vintage Gem

by Patty J [8 July 2011]

Tucked away in the lively Wicker Park community is a vintage store that lives up to the area’s eclectic charm. Fashion gurus religiously scour these shops to find unique garments and trinkets that will help them sustain their individuality. But walking into Vintage Underground, aptly situated in a 4,000-square-foot space on the garden level of a North Avenue storefront, it becomes instantly apparent that this is not your run-of-the-mill vintage shop.  

Owner Carlos Pascoll hails from the antique world and explains his transition into the vintage scene: “Really the antique business is kind of dead now; the collector that has patience for [collecting] 1,800 pieces is dead now. That’s when I started in vintage … it’s considered 20-years-old, but it’s something you can use and wear.”

The definition that the Brazilian native lends to vintage suddenly seems broad when you capture the essence of his shop. Thirty showcases full of beaded gems, sparkly statement necklaces, and whimsical adornments decorate the entrance. Racks of once-loved vintage duds plaster the far back corner, and mannequins are placed about to celebrate the most prized looks.

Carlos is blessed to have access to estates sales, and frequently tours vintage shows to buy goods for his business. But in the early stages, picking out merchandise wasn’t as hassle-free, testing his market with garage sales. “I [would] do the test: I put boxes on the floor with a lot of old clothes, old shoes and good things—hats and a little bit of costume jewelry. It took two years to figure out what I could sell in the area. Jewelry is 90 percent of my business. All the stores around are clothing stores, and girls need accessories.”

If you burrow down into the depths that are Vintage Underground’s costume jewelry collection, you will be overcome by the multitude of colors and textures. The assortment is complete with a wide mix of jeweled necklaces, chunky bangles, and eclectic rings. But the true distinction that this shop has over all the others is the Yoyo Moyo line (first image, below)—Carlos’s own creation of steam-punk-inspired jewelry.

 “Jewelry involves lots of art … I like to look at the materials. I do more mechanical jewelry … I like to repair pieces. I also reuse jewelry. I believe in recycle, and a lot of the new generation believe[s in it as well], which is good. The success of the business is to continue what is created,” Carlos said. His own steam punk aesthetic is achieved when disassembly becomes art and he breaks down non-functioning clocks and combines them with other raw materials to create the unique jewelry and accessories.

While jewelry is the main focus of the vintage destination, there are other rarities that call this shop home. Vinyl records consume a wall. Oversized clocks, hatboxes, retro bicycles, and a hidden mini art gallery also fill the space.

Art is at the foundation of this vintage shop owner’s mindset, and with its being a shared experience, he doesn’t forget about his social responsibilities. Carlos has his own approach of giving back: “I support the Art Institute [of Chicago]. They take thousands of dollars [in tuition] and never give you any opportunity. At the end of the year, they have one exposition, and that’s it. And these kids need to eat, pay their rent … where does the money come from? I sell their art. I don’t charge commission. I support these kids in my Latino way.”

After a trip to Vintage Underground, you may be swept up in the nostalgia of fashion seasons past, or you may feel the communal vibe this neighborhood shop dishes out. Whichever it may be, you have just visited a piece of Chicago’s charm—and become part of its history. 

Visit Vintage Underground at 1834 W. North Avenue, Chicago.